Learn Index · Physics

Intro to Waves

Read

What is a wave?

At a stadium, fans stand up and sit down one after another, creating a "wave" that ripples around the stands. Nobody runs around the stadium, yet the wave travels all the way around. Physical waves work the same way.

A wave is a disturbance that transfers energy from one place to another without carrying matter along with it.

Waves are everywhere:

  • ripples on a pond
  • sound from a speaker
  • light from the Sun
  • radio signals to your phone
  • earthquakes shaking the ground
  • microwaves heating your food

Waves carry energy, not matter

A rubber duck on a pond bobs up and down as waves pass, but it doesn’t travel across the pond. The water moves in small circles, while the energy moves forward. In the ocean, waves can carry energy thousands of kilometres from a distant storm.

Two families of waves

Mechanical wave Electromagnetic wave
Needs a medium (solid, liquid or gas) to travel through Can travel through empty space (a vacuum)
Sound, water waves, earthquake waves, waves on a rope Light, radio waves, microwaves, X-rays
Can’t travel in space Travels at about 300 000 km/s in a vacuum

That’s why astronauts can see the Sun’s light but can’t hear explosions on it.

Two ways waves move

Transverse wave Longitudinal wave
Medium moves at right angles (up and down) to the wave’s direction Medium moves back and forth along the wave’s direction
Has a crest (high point) and a trough (low point) Has compressions (squeezed) and rarefactions (spread out)
A wave on a rope, light, ripples on water Sound, a pushed slinky

You can see both with a slinky:

  • Shake one end side to side → transverse wave.
  • Push and pull one end → longitudinal wave.

Earthquakes produce both: fast longitudinal P-waves arrive first, then slower transverse S-waves.

Parts of a wave

Part Meaning
Crest Highest point of a transverse wave
Trough Lowest point
Wavelength Distance from one crest to the next (or one compression to the next)
Amplitude Height from the middle (rest) line to a crest; bigger amplitude = more energy
Frequency Number of waves passing a point each second, in hertz (Hz)
Period Time for one complete wave

Wave speed

wave speed = frequency × wavelength

v = f × λ (λ is the Greek letter lambda)

Example: Ocean waves arrive every 5 seconds (frequency 0.2 Hz) with a wavelength of 40 m.
Speed = 0.2 × 40 = 8 m/s

Waves in daily life

Wave Used for
Sound Talking, music, ultrasound images
Light Seeing, photography, fibre-optic internet
Radio Radio, TV, cell phones, Wi-Fi
Microwaves Cooking, radar
Infrared TV remotes, thermal cameras
X-rays Medical imaging
Seismic waves Studying Earth’s interior
Ocean waves Surfing; wave energy for electricity

Common mistakes

  • Thinking waves carry the water or air forward. They carry energy.
  • Thinking sound can travel through space.
  • Mixing up wavelength and amplitude. Wavelength is length along the wave; amplitude is height.

Try it yourself

  1. Lay a rope on the floor with a friend holding the other end. Make transverse waves. Try making the waves faster. What happens to the wavelength?
  2. Stretch a slinky and make both transverse and longitudinal waves. Draw each.
  3. Float a cork in a tub of water and make ripples. Watch how the cork moves.

Quick recap

  • A wave transfers energy, not matter.
  • Mechanical waves need a medium; electromagnetic waves don’t.
  • Transverse waves move up and down; longitudinal waves move back and forth.
  • Waves have wavelength, amplitude and frequency.
  • Wave speed = frequency × wavelength.